Christmas in Rome is a magical time of year, but for many Italians, the most important Christmas decoration is not the Christmas tree or festive lights; it's the traditional nativity scene or "presepio." In this article, we will explore the history of the Presepio in Rome, where to see the best examples, and much more.
"Presepio" means "cradle or crib" in Latin, a clue to the origin of this tradition. Come Christmas, there isn't a church in the city that won't boast a nativity scene. Some are small and simple, others are grand Baroque affairs. One thing is for certain: no two are the same.
A festive walk of the city's most famous presepi is a popular family activity at Christmas. If you're in Rome at Christmas, this is a must on your family itinerary.
The history of the presepio goes back 800 years to the 13th Century and St. Francis of Assisi. Inspired by his travels to the Holy Land, he asked the Pope if he could recreate the story of the birth of Christ in a cave near a monastery in Greccio, about 60 miles from Rome.
His idea was to use it as a teaching aid: he wanted to teach the mostly illiterate population about the miracle of Christ's birth. The whole affair was theatrical - a live reenactment, complete with a manger, an ox, and an ass.
According to some traditions, a miracle happened that night: some say the statue of the baby Jesus came to life, and others say an apparition of the infant Christ appeared in the manger. Other miracles were reported in the following days. The display was an instant hit with the locals, and a new Christmas tradition was born.
Where to See the Best Nativity Scenes in Rome
The Presepio of Santa Maria Maggiore
Today, you can see the oldest extant Nativity (Presepio) at the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore.
The Nativity, sculpted by Arnolfo di Cambio, was commissioned by Pope Nicholas IV in 1291. You can see this presepio year-round, so you can admire it even if you're not in Rome for the Holidays. The Basilica is also worth a visit as it houses a relic of the manger or crib of Christ - five pieces of sycamore wood housed in a dazzling silver and crystal reliquary.
The Presepio of Santi Cosma e Damiano
Another highlight of a presepio tour is a visit to the Basilica of SS Cosma e Damiano beside the Roman Forum. Here, you can find a lively and elaborate 18th-century nativity in the Neopolitan style. Look closely, and you'll notice that this scene is not set in the Holy Land or even in Biblical times.
The figures are in 18th-century dress (modern dress at the time it was created), and the setting is the area near the Roman Forum.
This is not a small nativity: it measures 19 feet long and 13 feet tall, with over 200 figures. It was donated by a Neopolitan native, Cataldo Perricelli, in 1939. This presepio made international headlines in 1988 when someone broke into the church at night and stole several pieces from the scene. Antique nativity figures are highly sought after in Italy. After careful restoration, it was returned to public view again in 1994. This is another presepio you can enjoy year-round in the Basilica's cloister.
The Santo Bambino in Santa Maria in Aracoeli
Santa Maria in Aracoeli also boasts a fascinating presepio The church, located in the heart of Rome, tends to be visited less by many tourists. Why? Perhaps it's the 124-step climb to the top?! Psst, do it on your knees, and according to legend, you'll win the lottery!
The church has a long and storied history and is worth a visit in its own right. After all, who wouldn't be fascinated by a church built on the site of the Sybilline oracle who foretold to the emperor Augustus the coming of Christ?
It's presepio, however, has an interesting story. The Nativity we see every year is essentially 19th-century, but it's the statue of the infant Jesus that captures our imagination today. According to tradition, the Santo Bambino, a wooden image of the baby Jesus, was carved from a single piece of olive wood from the Garden of Gethsemane.
The statuette came to Rome in the 15th Century and was long hailed for its healing properties. It was so popular that a procession of the image up the staircase of the Aracoeli took place every year on January 6th, the Epiphany. This image, too, was sadly the victim of theft in 1994 (Italian nativity items seem to be high on people's Amazon wishlists). A copy has since replaced it but is equally loved by Romans, along with the exquisite 19th-century Nativity that spills into the aisles during Christmas.
A more modern and equally enchanting nativity is the one constructed by the city's trash collectors, AMA (the garbage disposers of Rome). For years, AMA has been renowned for one of the city's most innovative and fun nativity scenes. It's a favorite amongst locals. Other iconic Nativity scenes include those at Piazza di Spagna, and at the churches of Sant'Eustachio and Santa Maria in Trastevere.
The Presepio in Saint Peter's Square
The big one? Of course, you can't go to Rome and NOT visit the Presepio at the Vatican. This is the big daddy of Roman Nativity scenes - a life-sized representation of the birth of Christ. Every year, the theme and the artists change.
This year, in 2024, the display will be produced by the tiny Italian town of Grado, in the Friuli-Venezia-Giulia region in the North-East of Italy. It's a small lagoon town (like Venice), and the Nativity will showcase the traditional "casóne," fisherman's huts, and local plants and wildlife of the region. The grand unveiling will happen on December 7th at 5 pm when the tree is also lit.
If all these nativity scenes aren't enough to fill your boots, then you can also check out the "100 Presepi Exhibition", now in its 7th year. It's a free exhibition that will take place in the left-hand colonnade of St. Peter's Square. Here, you'll be able to delight in over 120 nativity scenes from 22 countries around the world. It's a great family-friendly Holiday activity, and unlike most things in Rome, it will even be open on Christmas Day, December 25th.
For 25 years, Through Eternity has been organizing itineraries showcasing the best of Rome led by our resident expert guides. If you're planning a visit to the Eternal City this year, be sure to get in touch to help plan your perfect trip!
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